The Grand Canyon was astonishing, although perhaps not the way that most people mean. For starters, a lightning strike had started a fire in Bright Angel Canyon, which produced an enormous amount of smoke, obscuring probably 60% of the canyon. Surprising too how many people seemed to feel like the entire thing was a waste of time because they couldn't see the South Rim (or even half the way to the South Rim.) If you're on the North Rim (which I recommend--it's fairly uncrowded, considering, and the lodge is v. cool), clearly you've chosen NOT to visit the South Rim. A number of people were angry because, even though they were actually on the edge of the Grand Canyon, they couldn't see the part they opted not to visit.

(The hat is another startling development. We both bought hats in Durango--not matching, thank God, although we came close to it at one point. A wide-brimmed straw hat is a ridiculously useful thing to have in the hot sun. I plan to wear mine tomorrow (Thursday) when we begin the apartment search.)